Your friends who make your world

Best of friends
Jennifer, Cate, Amy, Lila, Kristen, Alison, me, Lisa

July was a whirlwind of activity — the beginning of summer often is — so I took my time posting about Alaska. I’m still playing catch-up.

Immediately after returning to Boston, we had family staying with us from Norway, I spent a weekend in Vermont, and then got busy with summer activities. I fell out of a running routine, but more on that later.

First things first — I want to jump back to the day I landed in Boston after 16 hours of traveling from Alaska. (Anchorage to Seattle to Detroit, (on a red eye), and eventually to Boston.

The end of my Alaska trip was emotionally draining relative to Julia and the unsettled feeling she left me with. I was angry, disappointed, and sad, but had no regrets about ending our friendship. Still, I was exhausted from all of it.

I left Anchorage on a Monday morning, with several stops ahead in my itinerary, (aka the cheapest flights). I didn’t get much sleep, but there were no delays and the flights were easy.

When I landed in Boston early on a Tuesday, with plans to take the train and bus from Logan to Swampscott, I was shocked when I found Amy waiting for me in baggage claim, with Jennifer waiting in the car, curbside, with coffee! Oh my god, I cried. I couldn’t help it. I cried. I was just so shocked to see them.

(They had texted Will for my flight info and even asked him how I take my coffee. Ohmigosh, I’m gonna cry again remembering it.)

After four days of insanity and abuse from someone I thought was a friend, my REAL FRIENDS were there for me, picking up my sorry ass, literally and figuratively. I’m so humbly grateful to both of them. They are the best, and I’m so damn lucky to have good genuine friends in my life — Amy, Jennifer,  Lila, Alison, Cate, Kristen, and Lisa. (Ingrid, too.) Damn lucky.

“Wherever you are, it is your friends who make your world.” (William James)

Alaskaman DNF Meltdown

As I wrap up my posts from Alaska, I find I need to address what initially brought me there -- the Alaskaman XTri. It’s hard to write a race wrap-up to a race I didn’t compete in, but the 4 days I spent with Julia during Alaskaman are days I’ll happily put behind me. In short, they were regrettable. I’d trained for this event to support a friend I’d known for several years who, as it turns out, I didn’t really know at all. Very unfortunate. I could go into details of how things unfolded during my time with Julia, but I don’t want to put any more thought into that whole shitshow. It’s just not worthy of my energy. Instead, I’ll remember the AMAZING adventures I had exploring Alaska before Julia's arrival and leave it at that. Take the high road. The view is better.

Alaska is forever in my heart.

Portage and Whittier

Portage Glacier

I wish I had more time to explore Portage and Whittier, but it was late in the day by the time I arrived at Portage. I caught site of the glacier in the distance and knew I missed my opportunity to both hike to the glacier and bike in Girdwood by staying an extra day in Seward. I will just have to visit again. I underestimated the hugeness of Alaska and really needed another week to fit in everything I'd hoped to do.

After securing my site at Black Bear, I drove towards Whittier and through the tunnel — which is a crazy experience in itself. The tunnel is timed for one way traffic and costs $14 to travel the northbound direction to Whittier. I paid for the 7:00 pm entrance and waited for the gates to open allowing northbound traffic. In addition to car traffic, the narrow tunnel serves the Alaska Railroad, and driving on the train tracks was pretty sketchy. Sketch-y.

Whittier was quite chilly, enveloped in fog, and reminded me of Seward. I walked around the docks, watched some of the boats returning to shore, and found a small place to have dinner. I texted home, (finally having spotty 1X cell service), and reflected on the adventures of the day — leaving Seward early in the morning, hiking Exit Glacier, driving the Seward Highway with scenic stops along the way, nearly running out of gas... and finding a campsite at Black Bear campground after seeing a real black bear earlier in the day... it was a pretty eventful day.

The Alaska Railroad

Train gets priority passage through the Whittier Tunnel

Waterfall in Whittier

Whittier

Parked outside the Wild Catch Cafe

Miller’s Landing

The sun and haze from the Swan Lake Fire over Resurrection Bay

Greetings from Girdwood

The Brooks saddle nails it

Salmonfest! This would have been fun to catch

Solo Adventuring Winds Down

Awwwww it was sad to see the solo part of my Alaska adventures come to an end. I had the best time exploring the peninsula, although sometimes pack living was a little old. I only managed to get two showers during the week, (#wildhairdontcare), and I lost my toothbrush somewhere and ended up brushing my teeth with toothpaste on a gauze pad. Overall, however, its been pretty cool. I only wished I had company! I think Mike and the boys would have enjoyed it.

I loved the Jeep camper! After my near-disaster in Homer when I temporarily lost the pop-up crank, I was diligent about keeping track of it’ whereabouts. Setting up and breaking down camp was easy — less than a half an hour — and I liked the freedom the Jeep gave me. I’d definitely do that again.

I overpacked for the trip, but that was due my planned participation in Alaskaman. I had biking and running and hiking gear with me — extra stuff that I ended up not needing. That was unfortunate. I sent home a few things when I got to Moose Pass to lighten my pack, including some warm weather clothes eince I'd been cold in Seward and Homer. In retrospect, that turned out to be a mistake as a few days later a heat wave hit Anchorage.

I also sent home some of my running gear after Julia ditched me on the run. (Yes, it's true. Ditched.) I knew she was looking for a runner through March, April, and May... but the odds of her finding a support runner on June 19th, a week before the race, were pretty long — so I was quite stunned when she dumped me via text message while I was on my way to the Kenai. (“You’re off the hook for the run”) That’s. It. No phone call. No thank you for the commitment I'd made or the time I'd invested in training over the last three months... nothing. If I were paying attention, it was my first red flag to the insanity that would come later, but at that moment I didn’t have a clue.

Anyway, back to the Jeep and pack living...

I didn’t use the equipment Ron provided with the Jeep rental, except for the bear spray, (which I carried but didn’t need), and both sleeping bags, which I used as blankets. I slept in a Friendly Swede liner on a Klymit sleeping pad, and used the sleeping bag as a blanket. A few nights I needed both bags. I didn’t cook any meals and instead grabbed breakfast on the road and ate lunch/dinner in small restaurants because I didn’t want to keep food in the Jeep. (because of, ahem, bears).

Surprising things that came in handy: a microfiber pack towel, sleeping bag liner, uniqlo down jacket, and a sleeping mask.

Things I could have left behind (other than the race-related gear): journal, nutrition bars, headlamp, half of the first aid kit.

Race related gear I didn't need: microspikes (2 pairs), running shoes, trail running shoes, running clothes, compression shorts, a compass, Ultimate Direction hydration vest, Black Diamond folding trekking poles, and a fully stocked first aid kit.

I'll have a lighter pack the next time.

Some of the gear

Potter’s Marsh and Beluga Point

At Beluga Point

Beluga Point

Low tide on Turnagain Bay

An eagle soars over Potter's Marsh

Mama moose and two calves

Mountains, Lupine, and More

Minor glitches, no disasters

Running on Empty
After leaving Exit Glacier, I hit the road towards Girdwood, stopping a few times along the way. I had a half tank of gas when I left Seward in the morning, not thinking much about it. It wasn’t until the warning light popped on somewhere south of Portage that I began to wonder where the next gas station might be. I also had no cell service to figure it out (or call AAA if I got stuck). Eventually I arrived at the Alaskan Railroad’s Spencer Whistle Stop near Portage, and was able to ask where the next gas station might be — which I discovered was another 20 miles down the road and the only station for the 85 mile stretch between Girdwood and Seward. I feel like I should have known that. I wasn’t confident I’d make it 20 miles, but I made it. Phew! That was a close call.

Another Kind Rescue
My final night camping was at Black Bear Campground near Portage Glacier. What a great little find! It’s a tiny spot, not far from the popular (and larger) Williwaw campground. I found an open site (there were only a few) and returned to the kiosk to pay — the fee was $14.

I had a choice. I could overpay with a $20 bill or pay with twelve $1 bills and 8 quarters. I chose the later. Lol. The envelope was so thick it got jammed in the kiosk slot and wouldn’t budge! OMG. I couldn’t get it in or out! An RV pulled in, the driver got out, looked at my envelope stuck in the kiosk and said, “I guess it’s free then if I can’t pay.” and left! (WTF?) Meanwhile, another camper, (an older retiree who reminded me of the gentleman in Homer), saw me struggling to get it unstuck and offered to help. He walked to his camper and brought back some needle-nose pliers, gave it some muscle and got it free! Phew! I don’t know if the other guy ever paid, but an hour later all the sites were full.

Exit Glacier Hike

Black bear spotted near Exit Glacier!
(Yes, I had a telephoto lens)

Hiking day! My calf was starting to feel a little better after a few days rest, so on Tuesday I decided to hike to Marmot Meadows at Exit Glacier. Ohmigosh I’m so glad I didn’t skip this hike! The minute I could see the glacier in the distance, I felt my adrenaline spike and I couldn’t wait to start hiking. Wow. Just, wow.

First glimpse of Exit Glacier

It was still fairly early in the morning when I arrived at Exit Glacier National Park, with only a few dozen cars in the parking lot. It wasn’t a difficult hike to start, but as it started to take on some elevation, I noticed another woman about 50 yards ahead of me stop and take a photo and move on. When I reached the same spot, there was a gorgeous view of the glacial fields below and I, too, stopped and took a photo. That scenario played out again... she stopped for a photo and then I stopped for a photo... until I caught up to her on the third photo op and we both laughed. Her name was Annie and we hiked and took photos together for the remainder of the trek to Marmot Meadows. On our way back down the trail, we were thrilled to see a black bear in the distance! So, so cool. It wasn’t a threat to either of us but a reminder that we were in bear country — and I was glad I wasn’t alone.

When I returned back to base, I stopped at the visitor’s center for water, checked out the exhibits that included historical photos of the glacier, (which sadly is rapidly receding), and made a donation towards the park’s conservation efforts. No doubt the next time I visit, if that opportunity ever comes, it will be a much different place. So sad.

Exit Glacier

Seward, Day 2

Resurrection Bay

I spent a second day in Seward for some much needed downtime. I visited the Alaska Sealife Center, browsed through all of the little shops on Fourth Avenue, and spent some time in Sea Bean Cafe where they had WiFi and good chai. I brought my book (a paperback I’d picked up at a used bookstore in Anchorage) down to the waterfront and relaxed and read for a while, sometimes distracted by the sea otters and eagles on Resurrection Bay. Late in the day I drove down to Miller’s Landng and explored a little there before returning to my perfect little campsite by the bay. It wasn’t an adventurous day, but I needed the break.

Early morning fog

Next Stop, Seward

Poor visibility due to the Swan Lake Fire, June 23

Sunday. I left Homer before 8 and made my way back up the Sterling Highway on my way to Seward. There aren’t many highways in Alaska, so there are limits to the direction in which you travel. As I passed Anchor Point, I noticed the air was getting denser, and the distinct odor of a campfire growing stronger. I’d seen posted warnings about a forest fire near Sterling on my way down to Homer a few days earlier, but this was the first time I’d encountered it. As I approached the town of Sterling, it was like driving through heavy fog — I could only make out the car in front of me. In the coming days, the fire would grow to 100,000 acres and the smoke would obliterate the mountain views for days, from Seward to Anchorage, but lucky for me, that was still several days away.

Finding the right spot. Waterfront Park, Seward

I arrived in Seward to discover all of the campsites “full”. It was noon, and I hadn’t eaten much during the day, so I parked in downtown Seward (which is barely a block, no larger than old town Marblehead), and walked around. I had lunch, browsed some shops, and then decided to hit the road and maybe try Miller’s Landing for a campsite. At this point, it was after 3:00, and as I turned down the street passing the waterfront campgrounds, noticed the “full” signs were down and several dozen open spots. Timing is everything! The solstice weekend was over and everyone was pulling out. I found a campsite directly on the water. Awesome.

It was chilly and very windy by the water, but I didn’t mind. The walk along Resurrection Bay was stunning and stretched for miles, and I had a picture perfect view of the bay and mountains. It really couldn’t be any more perfect. Eagles and sea otters and ravens...just wow.

The view from my tent. Amazing.