Alaskaman DNF Meltdown

As I wrap up my posts from Alaska, I find I need to address what initially brought me there -- the Alaskaman XTri. It’s hard to write a race wrap-up to a race I didn’t compete in, but the 4 days I spent with Julia during Alaskaman are ones I’ll happily put behind me. In short, they were regrettable. I’d trained for this event to support a friend I’d known for several years who, as it turns out, I didn’t really know at all. Very unfortunate. I could go into details of how things unfolded during those four days of insanity but I don’t want to go there. Airing dirty laundry is not what I do, nor is it worthy of my energy. Instead, I’ll remember the AMAZING solo adventures I had exploring Alaska and leave it at that.

Take the high road. The view is better.

Alaska is forever in my heart.

Portage and Whittier

Portage Glacier

I wish I had more time to explore Portage and Whittier, but it was late in the day by the time I arrived at Portage. I caught site of the glacier in the distance and was disappointed to miss my opportunity to both hike to the glacier and bike in Girdwood by staying an extra day in Seward, but I'll just have to visit again one day. I underestimated the hugeness of Alaska and really needed another week to fit in everything I'd hoped to do.

After securing my site at Black Bear, I drove towards Whittier and through the tunnel — which is a crazy experience in itself. The tunnel is timed for one way traffic and costs $14 to travel the northbound direction to Whittier. I paid for the 7:00 pm entrance and waited for the gates to open allowing northbound traffic. In addition to car traffic, the narrow tunnel serves the Alaska Railroad, and driving on the train tracks was pretty sketchy. Sketch-y.

Whittier was quite chilly, enveloped in fog, and reminded me of Seward. I walked around the docks, watched some of the boats returning to shore, and found a small place to have dinner. I texted home, (finally having spotty 1X cell service), and reflected on the adventures of the day — leaving Seward early in the morning, hiking Exit Glacier, driving the Seward Highway with scenic stops along the way, nearly running out of gas... and finding a campsite at Black Bear campground after seeing a real black bear earlier in the day... it was a pretty eventful day.

The Alaska Railroad

Train gets priority passage through the Whittier Tunnel

Waterfall in Whittier

Whittier

Parked outside the Wild Catch Cafe

Greetings from Girdwood

The Brooks saddle nails it

Salmonfest! This would have been fun to catch

Solo Adventuring Winds Down

Awwwww it was sad to see the solo part of my Alaska adventures come to an end. I had the best time exploring the peninsula, although sometimes pack living got a little old. I only managed two showers during the week, (#wildhairdontcare), and I lost my toothbrush somewhere and ended up brushing my teeth with toothpaste on a gauze pad. Overall, however, its been pretty cool. I only wished I had company! I think Mike and the boys would have enjoyed it.

A brief wrap up -- I loved the Jeep camper! After my near-disaster in Homer when I temporarily lost the pop-up crank, I was diligent about keeping track of its whereabouts. Setting up and breaking down camp was easy — less than a half an hour — and I liked the freedom the Jeep gave me. I’d definitely do that again.

I overpacked for the trip, but that was due my planned participation in Alaskaman. I had biking and running and hiking gear with me — extra stuff that I ended up not needing. That was unfortunate. I sent home a few things when I got to Moose Pass to lighten my pack, including some warm weather clothes since I'd been cold in Seward and Homer. In retrospect, that turned out to be a mistake as a few days later a heat wave hit Anchorage.

I also sent home some of my running gear after Julia ditched me on the run. (Yes, it's true, she did that.) I knew she was looking for a support runner through February, March, April, and May, (since her previous support runner, her husband, had initiated a divorce)... but the odds of her finding a runner on June 19th, a week before the race, were pretty long. By the time I landed in Alaska I was mentally prepared to run.

I was therefore quite stunned when she cut me loose via text message in Alaska while I was on my way to the Kenai.

(A brief text message. No phone call. No thank you for the commitment I'd made or the time and money I'd invested in training over the last three months... nothing. Harsh move. If I were paying attention, it was my first red flag to the shit show that would come later, but at that moment I didn’t have a clue.)

Anyway, back to the Jeep and pack living...

I didn’t use the equipment Ron provided with the Jeep rental, except for the bear spray, (which I carried but didn’t need), and both sleeping bags, which I used as blankets. I slept in a Friendly Swede liner on a Klymit sleeping pad, and used the sleeping bag as a blanket. A few nights I needed both bags. I didn’t cook any meals and instead grabbed breakfast on the road and ate lunch/dinner in small restaurants because I didn’t want to keep food in the Jeep. (Because of, ahem, bears).

Surprising things that came in handy: a microfiber pack towel, sleeping bag liner, uniqlo down jacket, and a sleeping mask.

Things I could have left behind (other than the race-related gear): journal, nutrition bars, headlamp, half of the first aid kit.

Race related gear I didn't need: microspikes (2 pairs), running shoes, trail running shoes, running clothes, compression shorts, a compass, Ultimate Direction hydration vest, Black Diamond folding trekking poles, and a fully stocked first aid kit.

I'll have a lighter pack the next time.

Some of the gear

Potter’s Marsh and Beluga Point

At Beluga Point

Beluga Point

Low tide on Turnagain Bay

An eagle soars over Potter's Marsh

Mama moose and two calves

Minor glitches, no disasters

Running on Empty
After leaving Exit Glacier, I hit the road towards Girdwood, stopping a few times along the way. I had a half tank of gas when I left Seward in the morning, not thinking much about it. It wasn’t until the warning light popped on somewhere south of Portage that I began to wonder where the next gas station might be. I also had no cell service to figure it out (or call AAA if I got stuck). Eventually I arrived at the Alaskan Railroad’s Spencer Whistle Stop near Portage, and was able to ask where the next gas station might be — which I discovered was another 20 miles down the road and the only station for the 85 mile stretch between Girdwood and Seward. I feel like I should have known that. I wasn’t confident I’d make it 20 miles, but I made it. Phew! That was a close call.

Another Kind Rescue
My final night camping was at Black Bear Campground near Portage Glacier. What a great little find! It’s a tiny spot, not far from the popular (and larger) Williwaw campground. I found an open site (there were only a few) and returned to the kiosk to pay — the fee was $14.

I had a choice. I could overpay with a $20 bill or pay with twelve $1 bills and 8 quarters. I chose the later. Lol. The envelope was so thick it got jammed in the kiosk slot and wouldn’t budge! OMG. I couldn’t get it in or out! An RV pulled in, the driver got out, looked at my envelope stuck in the kiosk and said, “I guess it’s free then if I can’t pay.” and left! (WTF?) Meanwhile, another camper, (an older retiree who reminded me of the gentleman in Homer), saw me struggling to get it unstuck and offered to help. He walked to his camper and brought back some needle-nose pliers, gave it some muscle and got it free! Phew! I don’t know if the other guy ever paid, but an hour later all the sites were full.

Exit Glacier Hike

Black bear spotted near Exit Glacier!
(Yes, I had a telephoto lens)

Hiking day! My calf was starting to feel a little better after a few days rest, so on Tuesday I decided to hike to Marmot Meadows at Exit Glacier. Ohmigosh I’m so glad I didn’t skip this hike! The minute I could see the glacier in the distance, I felt my adrenaline spike and I couldn’t wait to start hiking. Wow. Just, wow.

First glimpse of Exit Glacier

It was still fairly early in the morning when I arrived at Exit Glacier National Park, with only a few dozen cars in the parking lot. It wasn’t a difficult hike to start, but as it started to take on some elevation, I noticed another woman about 50 yards ahead of me stop and take a photo and move on. When I reached the same spot, there was a gorgeous view of the glacial fields below and I, too, stopped and took a photo. That scenario played out again... she stopped for a photo and then I stopped for a photo... until I caught up to her on the third photo op and we both laughed. Her name was Annie and we hiked and took photos together for the remainder of the trek to Marmot Meadows.

On our way back down the trail, we were thrilled to see a black bear in the distance! So, so cool. It wasn’t a threat to either of us but a reminder that we were in bear country — and I was glad I wasn’t alone.

When I returned back to base, I stopped at the visitor’s center for water, checked out the exhibits that included historical photos of the glacier, (which sadly is rapidly receding), and made a donation towards the park’s conservation efforts. No doubt the next time I visit, if that opportunity ever comes, it will be a much different place. So sad.

Exit Glacier

Next Stop, Seward

Poor visibility due to the Swan Lake Fire, June 23

Sunday. I left Homer before 8 and made my way back up the Sterling Highway on my way to Seward. There aren’t many highways in Alaska, so there are limits to the direction in which you travel. As I passed Anchor Point, I noticed the air was getting denser, and the distinct odor of a campfire growing stronger. I’d seen posted warnings about a forest fire near Sterling on my way down to Homer a few days earlier, but this was the first time I’d encountered it. As I approached the town of Sterling, it was like driving through heavy fog — I could only make out the car in front of me. In the coming days, the fire would grow to 100,000 acres and the smoke would obliterate the mountain views for days, from Seward to Anchorage, but lucky for me, that was still several days away.

Finding the right spot. Waterfront Park, Seward

I arrived in Seward to discover all of the campsites “full”. It was noon, and I hadn’t eaten much during the day, so I parked in downtown Seward (which is barely a block, no larger than old town Marblehead), and walked around. I had lunch, browsed some shops, and then decided to hit the road and maybe try Miller’s Landing for a campsite. At this point, it was after 3:00, and as I turned down the street passing the waterfront campgrounds, noticed the “full” signs were down and several dozen open spots. Timing is everything! The solstice weekend was over and everyone was pulling out. I found a campsite directly on the water. Awesome.

It was chilly and very windy by the water, but I didn’t mind. The walk along Resurrection Bay was stunning and stretched for miles, and I had a picture perfect view of the bay and mountains. It really couldn’t be any more perfect. Eagles and sea otters and ravens...just wow.

The view from my tent. Amazing.

Part 2 from Homer, AK; Seldovia

After securing another site stay at the campground, I returned to the marina for a wildlife boat tour to Seldovia, across Kachemak Bay. I hadn’t had any interest in a boat tour prior to my arrival, but after seeing the mountains and glaciers in the distance, I suddenly wanted to cross the bay! It did not disappoint.

I caught the 10 a.m. departure of a boat named The Raibow Connection, which travelled out to Gull Island first before turning towards Seldovia. I got my first glimpse of sea otters and eagles in the wild, (which I saw aplenty in the coming days), seals, kittiwakes and common murres, and a puffin! In Seldovia, I hiked the Otter Bahn trail (3 miles round trip) before returning back to town with time to pop into a few shops and sit down for an iced coffee at a small coffee shop. Seldovia was charming.

Another great day!

Good Morning, Homer AK.

Good morning from Homer! Waking up to a sunrise at 4 am, with the moon still high in the sky behind me, was magical. I wasn’t sure what my plan was for the day, but knew I wanted to spend one more night in Homer. I broke down camp and headed over the causeway to have breakfast on the spit. Google informed me that the only place open at 6 am was the Baleine Cafe, so off I went. It was fantastic! And so friendly! I was one of only a few customers in the cafe, too early for most of the tourists. Fishermen came in for breakfast, a few stopping by for call-in orders to go. I’m sure it was a packed place an hour after I left. I explored the quiet docks of Homer and window shopped the closed stores. So peaceful and unhurried without the tourist traffic.

My plan for the day was to take a boat out to Seldovia which didn’t leave until 10, so I returned to The Mariner campground and noticed a few campers had packed up and left, including one directly across from me on the beach. I paid for that spot and moved the Jeep, and placed my reservation slip on the post. (I took a photo of it this time for evidence. No one was stealing my spot this time.) While I was doing that, a nice older gentleman came over and said, “I was hoping you’d return!” He then held out the removable crank that engages the pop-up tent on the camper. OMG, I must have dropped it when I broke down camp! He not only saved my camping adventures for the next week, but also $500. Ron (at the rental company) had explained to me that it’s been difficult getting replacement cranks from the tent company and begged me not to lose it. Two days later, I almost did. Woah. I thanked him profusely. I was really lucky.

Morning in Homer, AK

Cooper Landing, Russian River

The next morning I drove out to Cooper Landing early, planning to packraft with Kenai Backcountry Adventures, but after learning it was just me and a guide, I changed my mind and joined a small group of people kayaking the Upper Kenai with another outfitter instead. I spent three hours on the river with some fun folks, (instead of 6+ hours, solo, just me and a guide), and I was able to include a hike on the Russian River Trail as well. Better plan! My morning on the Upper Kenai River and Russian River was spectacular — salmon were running (sockeye?) and the river was teeming with fishermen lined up along the Russian River competing for fish.

Combat fishing on the Russian River

Homer was my next stop after hiking the Russian River Trail, and as I approached the southern end of the peninsula, the weather shifted and I was met with clouds and rain. A pretty contrast to the upper end of the Kenai.

I explored Homer, drove along the bay to catch glimpses of Grewink Glacier through the fog, stopped for coffee and food at Three Sisters Bakery, and headed out to Homer Spit. It was the solstice — or rather, THE SOLSTICE, which is an actual event in Alaska — the longest day in a place where the day never really ends. At the end of the Spit I learned the campground Ron recommended was full, (as were two other places on the Spit), so after checking out a few shops, I returned to the start of the causeway where The Mariner campground sat and found a spot. (Actually 2 spots, which was lucky because someone stole the spot I’d paid for and I just didn’t have the energy to argue.)

It was such an amazing day — Alaska doesn’t disappoint.

Happy Solstice!

Next Stop: Hope, Alaska

I picked up the Jeep camper, grabbed some food and supplies from REI, and headed south. The views along the Turnagain Arm were breathtaking and I stopped several times along the way to take it all in. So incredible.

Hope, Alaska

My first overnight stop was the small village of Hope, 20 miles from the Seward Highway. Many original cabins built during the gold-rush era are still standing in Hope, not far from the banks of Six-Mile Creek. A small cafe, bar, and community hall are nestled on the town's "Main Street", but you could miss them if you blink, it's that small. The area is gorgeous. Whitewater rafting and hiking opportunities are aplenty here, with the Six-Mile Creek and the northern end of the Resurrection Trail being a huge draw. (The other end of the trail begins/ends in Cooper Landing). I had initially planned to mountain bike the Resurrection Trail before Alison started talking to me about bears... and I realized biking or hiking solo in the backcountry was too risky. Still, I kept Hope as my first destination and I’m glad I did. It’s a special place.

The view of Turnagain Arm from Site #6 at Porcupine CG

I next headed to the Porcupine campground, found just beyond Hope in the Chugach National Forest. I located my reserved site, set up camp, and headed out on a moderate hike to Gull Rock and back. My left calf was still giving me some issues, so I didn’t push too hard. Later in the evening, I had a chance to watch the Bore Tide come in from the advantage of my tent. So cool. Really, so cool.

A pretty good day.